Bucatini all'Amatriciana

2 tbs of olive oil

16 oz 1/4-inch cubed guanciale (Pancetta will do in a pinch)

1.5 onion, chopped not minced -controversial and optional

6 cloves garlic-controversial and optional

4 anchovies minced- blasphemous and optional

2 tsp red hot pepper flakes or 4 Calabrian peppers ( Monique and I do 5 Calabrian peppers)

2 28 oz tins of San Marzano tomatoes

1 lb bucantini or spaghetti

1 cup (1 gram) Freshly grated pecorino Romano or Pecorino Sardinia . (look always for D.O.P. designation)

Before you begin: As with all classic pasta dishes, Bucatin all'amatriciana has it's lore and controversies

Bring 6 quarts of water to boil and add plenty of salt.

In a large saute pan combine 2 tbs olive oil, and guanciale and cook over medium high heat until crispy on outside and unctuous inside

Remove most of the oil from pan but continue cooking the guanciale while adding the next ingredients. Add back the fragrant and tasty oil according to your taste

Add the onion and red pepper flakes. After 5-10 minutes or until onions are soft add the garlic and anchovies(unlike the more common heresies, including the addition of garlic and onion, anchovies are my particular blasphemy and, as such, optional) and fry for a couple of minutes.

Add the tomatoes, turn up the heat-up to a boil and then down to a gentle simmer and allow to bubble for approximately 30 minutes or until sauce thickens. The test for thickness is dividing the sauce in the pan by dragging a wooden spatula along the bottom. If the path of the spatula divides the sauce fairly decisively with only the oil intermingling, it has arrived. Be aware that in the finishing steps below you will be adding more starchy pasta water so dont worry if this test seems to leave your sauce too dry.

Can be prepared in advance to this point.

While sauce simmers, cook the bucatini according to manufacturer's instructions, until almost dente. Reserve about 1 cup of the water bucatini cooked in.

Drain and transfer bucatini to the saute pan with the sauce and half the reserved pasta water. Cook and toss for a couple of minutes to thicken and finish cooking. If you feel more liquid is needed add more of the reserved water. When done toss in and mix in a handful or two of pecorino

Top with additional freshly grated pecorino and drizzle an additional Tbs olive and serve.

Note: The goal here is to have a sauce that is not too thin or too thick. The dynamic elements here are reducing the tomato sauce to a point where the last bit of starchy pasta water will thicken up the pasta to the point where it coats pasta perfectly.

Russ:

The classic dish from this small Italian town does not include anchovies or garlic and rather than a prepared sauce uses simply canned tomatoes or boxed tomato puree. I stick with my innovations but want you to know how it is done classically.

This can also be made without tomato sauce for a different cut at it. In this case do not drain out the oil after rendering the guanciale and finish with chopped parsley and pecorino.

Chef's notes