Cioppino with Crabs, Clams and Shrimp

The tomato base: (yields approx 8 cups)

1/2 cup olive oil

4Tbs butter

1 large onion, chopped

1 small green bell pepper, cut into 1/2-inch dice (could be red if desired)

12-15 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 can of anchovies, minced

Reserved crab butter

4 dried red peppers, crushed 

1 tablespoon tomato paste

7 cups tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped (fresh or 2 28 oz cans)

Note: this quantity will make for a "stewy "cioppino. If you prefer soupier, add another can of tomatoes and adjust other ingredients accordingly

5 sprigs of thyme and 5 of oregano

2 bay leaves

2tsp Worcestershire celery salt

1 tbs Worcestershire sauce

The broth:

4 cups of fish stock or bottled clam juice and some crab broth

1 cups of white wine

8 cups of the tomato base (from above)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For Assembling and Finishing the Cioppino:

Head of garlic , sliced

1 red pepper in 1/2 inch chop

1 onion ,chopped

1 cup white wine

1 pound calamari, sliced tubes and tentacles

2 pound clams, scrubbed

2 pounds mussells

8 cups tomato sauce (from above)

2 pound snapper or rock cod, cut into 1.5-inch pieces

2 cooked Dungeness crabs, approx. 5 lb

2 pound large shrimp in their shell

Garnish with 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley or basil or Parsley Oil or pistou

Serve with croutons

See article on storing live shellfish

Preparing the Crab:

Remove the back shell from the crab, scrape out edible contents (yellow and white crab butter) and reserve. Discard the shell.

Remove the gills and again scrape out and again reserve crab butter.

Over a bowl, break the crab in half from top to bottom, making two identical halves. 

Reserve the crab liquid or crab butter.

Cut each half into 3 pieces so that each piece of the body is attached to a leg or claw. Or do all that intricate extraction in advance

Crack the legs and claws.

Note: I prefer to take all the meat from the shells in advance but realize this is controversial. I just dont enjoy a meal if my hands are full of cioppino sauce. This also allows me to steam the crab shells with some water and therby accumulate more flavored liquid for the broth

The Tomato Base:

In a soup pot, heat the butter over medium heat until melted . The add olive oil.

Add the onion and fry for several minutes, then do the same with bell pepper and finally add sliced garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 10 minutes.

Add in the anchovies and red pepper flakes and cook until the anchovy dissolves

Add in the crab butter and cook slowly for 2 minutes

Add in the sliced calamari tubes

Add the tomato paste and mix thoroughly

Add the tomatoes bay leaves, basil, thyme and oregano

Add salt, pepper, worcestershire, and celery salt

Simmer covered for 40 -50 minutes until thickened.

Note that this base can be made in advance

The Broth :

Increase the heat to high, add the wine and simmer for 3 minutes.

Lower the heat and stir in the fish stock and crab liquid or clam juice.

Add to the tomato base from above and stir

Taste for salt and pepper 

Can be prepared in advance to this point

Assembling and Finishing The Cioppino:

Put the olive oil,  in a wide, deep pot over medium heat

Add the garlic and cook until is fragrant, but not brown.

Add the onions and red bell peppers and cook until soft

Add the wine and the clams, and cover. Turn the heat up to medium-high and steam until the clams start to open, about 5 minutes. As clams open remove them , take out of shell while plump and reserve for the last steps

Add the mussels, cover and steam until the just start to open, about 2 minutes. As with clams, as they open take them out , remove from shell and reserve

Now stir in the combined tomato base and broth from above, along with the Worcestershire and bring to a simmer.

Add the squid tentacles at this point as they will need 20 minutes of coooking.

After 10 minutes have passed to allow tentacles to cook,add the cracked crabs, if using, with shell and simmer for about 5 minutes. If using crab meat without shell ,add it in along with ingredients in next step

Then gently stir in the reserved mussells and clams,fish, and shrimp, and simmer until they are all just cooked through and soup is at a temperatureto your liking for serving, about 3-5 minutes. (If using cooked crab meat, stir it in very gently the last minute or so of cooking time.)

 Season with salt and pepper and remove from the heat.

To serve, ladle the cioppino into bowls and garnish with the parsley or basil and perhaps Parsley oil or Pistou

Serve with crouton slices topped with saffron flavored ajioli

Barbera is a good wine to accompany this rich fish stew

Russ:

I prefer to facilitate eating by taking all meat from shells and adding at the end with the fish, clams and shrimp.

Chef's notes